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Saree Glossary: 25 Handloom Terms Every Saree Lover Should Know

Close-up of handloom saree weave

Shopping for handloom sarees comes with its own vocabulary. Here are 25 common terms explained simply.

Parts of a Saree

  • Pallu / Anchal: The decorated end of the saree that falls over the shoulder.
  • Body: The main part of the saree between the borders.
  • Border (Paar): The decorative edges running along the length.
  • Blouse piece: Extra fabric included to stitch a matching blouse.
  • Pleats: The folds tucked in at the waist.

Weaving Terms

  • Warp: Lengthwise threads fixed on the loom.
  • Weft: Crosswise threads woven through the warp.
  • Handloom: Fabric woven on a loom operated by hand and foot.
  • Powerloom: Fabric woven on a machine-powered loom.
  • Selvedge: The finished edge of the woven fabric.
  • Extra weft: Additional threads used to create raised motifs, as in Bomkai.
  • Count: A measure of yarn fineness – higher counts mean finer, softer fabric.

Techniques

  • Ikat / Bandha: Tie-dyeing yarn before weaving to create patterns.
  • Single ikat: Only warp or weft is tie-dyed.
  • Double ikat: Both warp and weft are tie-dyed.
  • Natural dye: Colour from plants, roots or minerals, as in Kotpad.
  • Zari: Metallic thread, traditionally gold or silver, used for shine.

Motifs and Designs

  • Buta / Buti: Small repeated motifs scattered across the body.
  • Kumbha / Phoda kumbha: Triangular temple-style border.
  • Shankha: Conch shell motif.
  • Chakra: Wheel motif.
  • Pasa: Chessboard check pattern.

Fabrics and Labels

  • Mulberry silk: Smooth, glossy cultivated silk.
  • Tussar: Golden, textured wild silk.
  • GI tag: Geographical Indication – certifies a product's regional origin.

Now that you know the language, explore our Odisha Sarees.

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Every piece at URVI AURA is sourced directly from Odisha's weavers. We offer free shipping, cash on delivery and easy returns, and we ship to customers across India and abroad. Have a question or want to order on chat? Message us on WhatsApp at 8093590151.