Pasapalli Saree: The Chessboard Ikat Weave of Odisha

If you have ever seen a saree covered in neat, contrasting squares that look like a chessboard, chances are it was a Pasapalli saree. This iconic Sambalpuri weave from western Odisha is instantly recognisable and timelessly elegant.

What Does "Pasapalli" Mean?

The name comes from pasa, a traditional board game played with dice that is mentioned in the Mahabharata. The checked squares on the saree resemble the game board, which is why the weave is called Pasapalli (also spelled Pasapali).

How a Pasapalli Saree Is Made

Pasapalli is a form of ikat, known locally as bandha. Before weaving, bundles of yarn are tightly tied and dyed so that some sections resist the colour. In many Pasapalli sarees, both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed – a highly skilled technique known as double ikat. When the yarns are woven, the dyed sections line up perfectly to form crisp checks.

Getting each square to align takes great precision, which is why a well-made Pasapalli is admired by textile lovers everywhere.

Classic Features of a Pasapalli Saree

• Contrasting checks, often in black and white, red and white, or maroon and cream
• Small ikat motifs such as flowers or conch shells inside the squares
• Rich borders and an ikat pallu with temple, animal or floral designs
• Available in both comfortable cotton and lustrous silk

Styling Ideas

• Modern look: A black-and-white Pasapalli with a plain red blouse and oxidised jewellery.
• Festive look: A silk Pasapalli with gold jhumkas and a bun with flowers.
• Workwear: A cotton Pasapalli with a collared or boat-neck blouse.

Cotton or Silk Pasapalli?

Cotton Pasapallis are breathable and ideal for summer and daily wear. Silk Pasapallis have a beautiful sheen and drape, making them perfect for weddings, pujas and parties.

Explore our Sambalpuri Sarees to find your Pasapalli.

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